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1. #2013 toyota tundra battery isolator wiring diagram pdf#
2. #2013 toyota tundra battery isolator wiring diagram manual#

#2013 toyota tundra battery isolator wiring diagram pdf#

On the above link you can find the "instructions" link to a pdf file that shows the ignition source activating the solenoid. I do this in my L/C with the $30 solenoid and a $10 switch. This way you could link them with the engine off, and you could choose which battery to use. And you could wire it to a switch, or switches for a semi-manual operation. That one is better suited to multiple battery setups like a Boat or RV would have.

#2013 toyota tundra battery isolator wiring diagram manual#

The full manual is nice, but not worth the extra money in my view. I would love to have it, but I wouldn't buy it. Well that is a mighty fine(expensive)ACR. It seems that a manual selector for the link of the two would be important and isolation cranking. This the right one? : Blue Sea Systems ML-ACR 12V DC 500A Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control : Boating Battery Switches : Automotive Just a thought.Īm I missing what Ozark, Habanero and Brilliant are discussing? Not far off from the IBS LED remote pad selector. Cheaper IS better as long as I'm not sacrificing capability.Įven if I go Bluesea 7622, I'm looking at a minimum of $300 in the unit, cables, ends and fuses. Am I correct in assuming that engine on runs/charges both batteries all the time? Thereby constantly linking them while running with no way to hard link them in case of needing both batteries with the engine off? (Without jumper cables) AND no way to isolate starting battery from a dead house battery while cranking? IBALL- (forgive my understanding, or lack of) the isolator works only when the key is on, engine off to run off of house battery. Or you could just buy one of those and let me know how it's working in 12 years. My solenoid is as old as my cables, do the math, just sayin'. Crimped and Soldered ends are the way to go here. The quality of the terminations is the most important part of the dual battery set up. I can't tell what you are getting in those kits, but I much prefer to get my own 2/0 or just O cable and buy the ends in the sizes I want. I think the Blue Sea might edge the Intellitec in price, when you add the cost of the delay. You can always add the Intellitec delay, or even use their Solenoid, which is used in a few hundred thousand motorhomes all over the world. Taught me that the Blue sea ACR has the added feature of a delay, useful for dead battery moments. I've had the same solenoid for about 6 sets of batteries, probably 12 to 15 98OzarksRunner

Similar to this one.Ī: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID FITS RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 1114208: Automotive In my L/C, I use a $30 golf cart style continuous duty solenoid. Odyssey style are pricey, but they work, more than I can say for Optima.īack to the solenoid. Yeah, I killed about 8 of them before I gave up.

Definitely a good option.ĭid I mention that since Interstate bought Optima they suck. Still I know their products and I like their products. As noted Blue Sea has some nice stuff, but they too require a deep Blue Sea pocket. Keep the LEDs some where else.īut the real problems come in the "intelligent" solenoid. Give me an analog Voltmeter anyday, in lieu of that, I'll take a digital voltmeter. I'm not saying cheaper is better, but I believe for that money you could build a better system that will last forever. Both of those posters know I have to give my. OK, the two previous replies were good replies.